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Mother and Child |
Greetings from Hawassa!
Marty's Good Friday walk downtown:
Suffer the Little Children
Ever since I came
upon children rising from their sleep in a culvert under a driveway
next to a thoroughfare, I have wanted to know more about the street
people, mainly the children and mothers, of Hawassa. When we firenjis
(Europeans) walk or bike
downtown we are accosted and our consciences assaulted by beggars of
all ages in torn clothing and no shoes asking for birr.
At first I tried to eliminate them from my sphere of responsibility
by labeling the children as urchins set up by adults for their own
purposes. But the picture of those very small children waking alone
from their hole under the road belied that fiction. They may be
preyed on by adults, true, but they are essentially alone and
vulnerable and have the right to assault the conscience of us lucky
adults.
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Friends |
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Tough customer (or not!) |
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Tough customer with serious friend. |
I
had wanted to try to do some interviews, hiring a U. Hawassa student
to help. However, the students have been gone on anthropological
trips to the rest of Ethiopia, and this is a long weekend – today
is Good Friday as Sunday is Easter by Ethiopian calendar – and I
decided to do it in a much less formal way. I took my camera, my
backpack and 200 birr
and went for a walk to downtown Hawassa. To those who asked for
money, I gave, and then asked if it was ok to take a picture. Always
the answer was yes.
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Mother and Child |
However,
the process itself was not without its ethical burden. Despite their
very public presence and open request for money, I still felt like a
voyeur towards the adults. I felt like I was
commoditizing the children. I did my best to make things more human –
showed them the pictures, asked their names and thanked them – but
still know that I was paying them for the only thing they have –
their visages.
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Disabled young man. |
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Disabled elderly man |
The
last four kids I photographed followed me home where I asked friend
Beza to translate. Three were brothers, Woleyta ethnicity from
Hawassa, whose parents had died and who were living in town with
their aunt who sent them out on the street to collect cardboard,
presumably to sell. The oldest appeared to be about 11 years old, his
brothers probably 6 and 4. They all may be older – I think they
were stunted. I gave them the bananas I had bought for Ell and they
begged for shoes. I said I didn't have the money but hope that I can
do it in the future. The fourth was a Sidama child, also 11 or
so, living on the street with an older friend who had traveled with
him from a nearby village after his mother was unable to care for
him. His father had died.
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Three brothers who accompanied me on my way home. |
As
we walked down the street, a group of students was walking towards
us. One broke off from the crowd and came up to the oldest brother
and deliberately shoved him. I stepped in and glared, then asked the
child if he faces violence frequently. He said yes. Our conversation
was limited to my total of about 50 Amharic words and his similar
English capacity. A lot of sign language. As always, thank God for
Beza and Walelign.
Also
included is a picture from the store where I buy eggs – colorful
and friendly.
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Shouk for eggs. |
Happy
Easter and Good Pesach!
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Mother and Child |
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Another sunset from our bedroom window. |
Marty,
ReplyDeleteThank you for posting on your walk in downtown Hawassa. It's devastating to see so many (this is probably a fraction)young, beautiful faces and not-so-young too, living on the streets. You laid out well the assaults on all of our consciences.. but.you are seeing the suffering up close and repeatedly. How should each one of us face the magnitude of suffering. . .except by the luxury of looking away?
thank you for reminding us not to look away.
Really liked this entry, mom. Sweet, simple, and reflective.
ReplyDeleteGreat photos, and a great post, Marty. I had wanted to do something similar while there, but never quite got up the courage and/or grappled with the moral dilemmas of such a project that you expressed in your post. I think that the honesty and compassion with which you approached each of individuals in your photos helps to reduce the voyeuristic quality. I am sure that each of them appreciated the positive interaction.
ReplyDeleteMissing you and Elliot and all of our Hawassa friends...I wish we could sneak into Barry's suitcase in May!
Your departure left a big hole for us, Emilia. We so miss your honesty, enthusiasm, youth and courage to explore. And we miss those darn card games by candlelight.
DeleteOne thing that helped to break down the cultural gaps in the interactions was my decision to sit down on the sidewalk when I took the pictures. That willingness plus my obvious difficulty getting up (!) let most folks know that I was vulnerable, too.
Had dinner with Rhobot last night. She misses you, too.
The same desperation is here at home, where the social climate also depersonalizes the poor.
DeleteI agree. At least there is SOME safety net in the US, unlike here. Being here makes me certain that we must fight to maintain and expand things like Medicaid, Welfare, housing, foodstamps, none of which exist here.
Delete